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On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water

机译:关于深部和地下重力波的统一起爆阈值   中等深度的水

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摘要

We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting thebreaking onset of 2D and 3D irrotational gravity water waves. This studyfocuses on domains with flat bottom topography and conditions ranging from deepto intermediate depth (depth to wavelength ratio from 1 to 0.2). Ourcalculations based on a fully nonlinear boundary element model investigatedgeometric, kinematic and energetic differences between maximally recurrent andmarginally breaking waves in focusing wave groups. Maximally steep non-breaking(maximally recurrent) waves are clearly separated from marginally breakingwaves by their normalised energy fluxes localized near the crest region. On thesurface, this reduces to the local ratio of the energy flux velocity (here thefluid velocity) to the crest point velocity for the tallest wave in theevolving group. This provides a robust threshold parameter for breaking onsetfor 2D and 3D wave packets propagating in uniform water depths from deep tointermediate. Warning of imminent breaking onset was found to be detected up toa fifth of a carrier wave period prior to a breaking event.
机译:我们回顾了预测2D和3D非旋转重力水波爆发的经典但尚未解决的问题。这项研究的重点是具有平坦底部地形的区域,其条件范围从深到中深度(深度与波长之比从1到0.2)。我们基于完全非线性边界元模型的计算研究了聚焦波组中最大递归波和极限破波之间的几何,运动和能量差异。通过在波峰区域附近的归一化能量通量,可以将最大陡峭的非破碎(最大重复)波与边缘破碎波清晰地分开。在表面上,这减小了演化组中最高波的能量通量速度(此处为流体速度)与波峰点速度的局部比率。这提供了一个强大的阈值参数,可以打破在从深到中的均匀水深中传播的2D和3D波包的爆发。发现在发生断裂事件之前直到载波周期的五分之一都检测到即将发生断裂开始的警告。

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